So, another fashion month has been and, just about, gone. This season, I was lucky enough to attend two days of London Fashion Week (read about it here). I spent the remainder of the month of September trawling through every collection on Vogue Runway and have complied a list of my top five collections of Spring/Summer 2020. They’re not necessarily the collections critically acclaimed by the likes of Vogue, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar, but rather the collections that have stolen my heart and that I feel will inspire my personal style the most come spring.
The Khaite aesthetic over the past few seasons has typically been jeans, shirting and knits with interesting and creative tweaks in proportion and fabrication. However, Catherine Holstein’s latest collection shook things up a little. Of the collection, she said: “I wanted it to feel more sensual. It’s a riskier take… but there’s a side of me that loves a sense of gaudiness and flash.” The collection featured idiosyncratic pieces and styling choices such as a pieced-together corset over a satin sarong and a peplum top ballooning over denim shorts. Alongside this, the American styling for which the brand is known, remained strong in fringed suede jackets, blue denim and plaid.
Jonathan Simkhai’s SS20 show was full to the brim with pastel confections. The collection radiated softness and femininity of form, hue and fabric treatment, with the colour palette being informed by the work of Georgia O’Keefe and intricate hand pleating, a subtle nod to Madame Grès. Ultra-feminine details such as lace inserts, grosgrain back ties and lingerie buttons were balanced beautifully by tailored pieces like a coat dress, pleated trench and smart pantsuits for a collection that screamed sophisticated summer styling.
From the moment I saw THAT PINK DRESS on Killing Eve, I’ve been a massive fan of Molly Goddard’s ethereal tulle designs. And, the Spring/Summer 2020 collection was as beautiful as ever. Billowing ankle-length skirts and dresses, so voluminous they literally brushed past the editors and buyers on the front row at the show, were paired with sweet sweaters, tied with velvet ribbon. It was also Goddard’s first foray into denim with 3D flower embellishments and raw-edge denim frocks that mimicked the lightness of the tulle pieces also presented by the designer.
The beauty of Prada has always been in the details and the SS20 collection showed the brand on top form. The designs were elegant with hints of inspiration from the 50s and 70s throughout and core items included long-line tailored jackets, a slightly transparent cheesecloth dress, and embroidered leather skirts, all with a hint of flare. As a longtime lover of Prada, this collection truly excited me. It’s elegant, unapologetically feminine, and the juxtaposition of contrasting textures within the looks was simply delicious.
Chloé’s SS20 collection felt a lot more refined than past seasons, shedding bold prints and boho accessories in favour of silk shirts, strong suiting and voluminous shirt dresses. Creamy peach dresses took over the runway and the brand’s signature romance was in full bloom with micro floral prints across
I do not own any of the images featured in this post. All images were found on Vogue Runway.